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BM · Benchmarks Engine

Keyboard Tester

Free online keyboard tester. Press keys on a live QWERTY layout to confirm each registers, find dead or stuck keys, read event.code and event.key, and measure key rollover and ghosting on your keyboard.

Keys Tested
0/84
Max Rollover
--keys

Last event.key

Last event.code

Esc
F1
F2
F3
F4
F5
F6
F7
F8
F9
F10
F11
F12
`~
!1
@2
#3
$4
%5
^6
&7
*8
(9
)0
_-
+=
Backspace
Tab
Q
W
E
R
T
Y
U
I
O
P
{[
}]
|\
Caps
A
S
D
F
G
H
J
K
L
:;
"'
Enter
Shift
Z
X
C
V
B
N
M
<,
>.
?/
Shift
Ctrl
Win
Alt
Space
Alt
Win
Menu
Ctrl
Ins
Hom
PgUp
Del
End
PgDn
Pressed now Registered Untested (possible dead key)

Coverage

0%of standard layout

Walk every row. Any cap that stays grey after you press it is a dead or non-registering switch.

Key Rollover

Hold several keys at once. The most the browser reports simultaneously is your effective rollover. Cheap membrane boards ghost or block past 2-3 keys; NKEY boards register them all.

code vs key

event.code is the physical position (KeyA), unaffected by layout or modifiers. event.key is the character produced (a, A). This tester maps the physical code.

Just start typing

How to Test Your Keyboard

Step-by-Step Guide

How to use this tool

1
Press Every Key

Click into the page and press each key once. Held keys glow blue; registered keys turn green and stay green.

2
Find Dead & Sticky Keys

Any cap that stays grey after a press is a dead switch; a key that stays lit or repeats after release is sticking.

3
Test Rollover

Hold several keys at once and watch the Max Rollover counter to reveal ghosting on cheaper keyboards.

Pro Tip

Sweep row by row so you don't miss a key. The live readout shows the exact event.code and event.key the browser received.

See Exactly What Your Keyboard Sends

A keyboard tester is the fastest way to confirm a keyboard is fully working before you buy it secondhand, after you clean it, or when a game keeps missing your inputs. This tool draws a full on-screen QWERTY layout and lights up each key the instant you press it. The moment a key registers it turns green and stays green, so after a quick sweep across the board you can see — at a glance — which keys responded and which never lit up.

Because the tool maps the physical event.code rather than the printed character, it behaves identically whether you run QWERTY, AZERTY, or Dvorak, and it does not care whether Caps Lock or Shift is engaged. The live readout above the board always shows the most recent event.key (the character produced) next to its event.code (the physical position), which is handy when you are debugging remaps or a misbehaving key.

What This Test Actually Checks

This tester answers three practical questions about your hardware:

  • Does every key work? Press them all. Anything still grey is a candidate dead switch.
  • Do any keys stick? A switch that stays highlighted blue after you let go, or that keeps repeating in the readout, is sticking and needs cleaning or replacing.
  • How good is your rollover? Hold many keys together and watch the Max Rollover counter climb.

How to Interpret Your Results

Aim for 100% coverage on a healthy board. Work methodically: number row, top letter row, home row, bottom row, then modifiers, space, function keys, and the arrow and navigation cluster. If a single key refuses to turn green, try pressing it a few more times and from different angles — intermittent registration often means dust or a tired switch rather than total failure.

For rollover, a result of 2-3 keys is typical of basic membrane keyboards and is fine for everyday typing. Gamers usually want 6-key rollover or full NKRO so that simultaneous movement, jumping, and actions never drop. If holding a specific trio of keys causes a fourth to stop responding, you have found a ghosting combination baked into the keyboard matrix — note it and test whether it affects keys you actually use together.

Troubleshooting Tips

  • A key won't register at all. Power down, pop the keycap, and blow out debris with compressed air. Reseat the cap firmly. On laptops, a failed key may need a new switch or membrane.
  • A key sticks or repeats. Sticky residue under the cap is the usual culprit. Clean around the switch; if it persists, the switch itself is worn.
  • A whole row is dead. That points to a cable, ribbon, or controller fault rather than individual switches — common after a liquid spill.
  • Nothing registers. Check the cable or wireless dongle, try another USB port, and confirm the OS sees the device.
  • Some keys never fire here. PrintScreen and certain media or Fn keys are grabbed by the OS before the browser receives them; that is expected, not a fault.

Reaction speed matters as much as key health for gaming, so once your board passes, benchmark your reflexes with the reaction time test and measure your real-world input speed with the typing speed test. Use the Reset button anytime to clear the green state and run a fresh sweep.

Common Questions

Expert FAQ

Expert Analysis

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